31 Evecare • Vol 11 • No. 1 • May–Aug 2023 woven, but the embroidery and embellishments are handmade. These sarees were traditionally made with the finest silk; however, the Panetar sarees are also woven now in lightweight fabrics such as crepe, tissue, georgette, chiffon, and organza. Gharchola Saree Just like the Panetar saree, the Gharchola sarees also form an integral element of the wedding rituals in Gujarat. The Gharchola saree is gifted to the bride by her in-laws. As a tradition, the bride wears a Panetar saree at the beginning and the Gharchola saree at the end of the wedding ceremony. Nowadays, brides wear a Gharchola chunni (a long scarf worn over the head and shoulders by women) to symbolize their shift from one family to the other. The weaving technique of the Gharchola sarees originated around the Khambat region in Southern Gujarat. Gharchola sarees are first woven using silk threads and zari and then embellished with Bandhani motifs. These sarees have a grid pattern made of zari and are dyed red. Some communities also use green, red, yellow, and white Bandhani motifs on these sarees. The Bandhani design is at the center of each grid and comprises patterns depicting peacocks, f lowers, and deities. If more than two dye colors are used, the design is called “phulwari” (garden). If animal motifs are used, the pattern is called “shikari” (hunting scene).> Patola Saree The Patola sarees originated in a small town in Gujarat called Patan. It is one of the finest and well-known fabrics in Gujarat. Patola involves a laborious technique of weaving and is a double Ikat (the method of dyeing the thread before weaving) saree. Patola sarees have geometrical patterns on the body, which appear same on both sides of the fabric. These sarees are made of silk, are available in vibrant colors, and have motifs of human figures, f lowers, elephants, or parrots. The resilient and natural dyes used in the yarns do not fade easily even if washed often. Till a few years ago, these sarees were exclusively meant for the royal families and aristocrats. The sarees are expensive due to the tedious and intricate manufacturing process. Ashavali Saree The Ashavali sarees originated in Ahmedabad, which was originally known as Ashaval, a place known for its brocade and silk weaving centers since the 14th century. The Ashavali sarees are woven in silk and involve intricate brocade work known as kinkhwab (embroidery which uses both gold and silver zari). Ashavali sarees mostly showcase the Mughal-inspired motifs of animals, birds, paisley, f lowers, and human figures. The motifs are crafted in contrasting colors to give a minakari (an art of enameling) look. These sarees are known for their bright color schemes. The pallu and border of these sarees are woven in gold threads in a twill weave pattern (diagonal weaving technique) to reveal the maximum amount of gold threads on the surface. These sarees have heavy borders Gujarati women drape the saree in a unique way—the pallu is worn over the shoulder from behind the body and covers the upper body in the front till the waist. Image source: https://grandmaslegacy.wordpress. com/2017/12/09/panetar-gujarat/ Gharchola Saree Image source: https://grandmaslegacy.wordpress.com/ tag/rajkot-patola/ Patola Saree Image source: https://sareepevaaree.wordpress. com/2014/02/10/a-for-ashavali/ Ashavali Saree
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MjAwNDg=