Evecare • Vol 11 • No. 2 • Sep–Dec 2023 30 Timeless Trends Gujarat Traditional Weaves From Bandhani or Bandhej Saree Bandhej, also known as Bandhani, is a tie and dye method practiced in the states of Gujarat, Rajasthan, and parts of Uttar Pradesh. The word Bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit word “Bandha” which means “to tie”. In this technique, a fabric is tied tightly with a thread at several points to produce a variety of patterns and then dyed. Bandhani sarees are available in vibrant colors (eg, red, yellow, green, and blue and combinations such as red and blue and red and yellow) and patterns (eg, dots, stripes, waves, and squares). As the process of making these sarees involves strategic tying and dyeing of the fabrics, these sarees are 100% handmade. The Khatri community of Gujarat has been involved in this art for generations. Originally, Bandhani dyeing was done using cotton fabrics; now, georgette, crepe, chiffon, cotton–silk blends, and resilient silk variants, such as the Gaji silk, are also used in the making of these sarees. The base material in Gajji silk is thick, lustrous, and smooth and can be dyed in vibrant colors. It is strong enough to withstand even heavy embellishments such as the Zardozi (a style of embroidery) work. Panetar Saree Panetar sarees are the traditional wedding attire in Gujarat. This ceremonial saree is gifted to a bride by her maternal uncle. The gifting of the Panetar sarees is integral to the marriage rituals in certain cities of Gujarat including Ahmedabad, Jamnagar, Kutch, Rajkot, and Surat. These sarees typically have a white body and red/maroon border and pallu (the loose end of the saree generally worn over the shoulder). The plain white body is woven in Gajji silk with linear stripes or checks and comprises zari (a type of gold thread) work. Simple Panetar sarees have dotted embroidery in red, while the grand ones are embellished with both embroidery in red, green, yellow, and saffron threads and sequin and stonework. The fabric of the Panetar sarees can be machine Image source: https://www.utsavpedia.com/ motifs-embroideries/bandhej-bandhani/ Bandhani Saree Image source: https://shayonastore.wordpress.com/2020/ 02/19/latest-traditional-gujarati-panetar-sarees-for-bride/ Panetar Saree Situated in the Western part of India, Gujarat is known for its rich heritage and culture beautifully showcased in the state’s architecture, festivals, dance forms, food, handicrafts, and music. Some noteworthy handicrafts of Gujarat include clothing, jewelry, metalwork, home decor items, leatherwork, mirrorwork, and clay items. Some of the most beautiful saree varieties of India have their origin in Gujarat. Here are some well-known Gujarat-based sarees.
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